Idaho Trip Campsites

Alpine Lake Campsite ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

Campsite at Alpine Lake, August 19

It is my custom to take a picture of each night’s camping site. This post includes one photo from each of the 17 campsites during last August’s trip to Idaho. Readers will notice an obvious equipment difference between the car camping nights during the early and late dates and the backpacking nights in between. My car camping tent was an REI Half Dome 2. My backpacking shelter was a Hennessey hammock with a MacCat tarp. Only once did I stay in the same spot for two consecutive nights (North Rim No. 40). In order, aside from the photo above, my campsites were:
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Hellroaring to Imogene Lake

Reflections in Imogene Lake ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

Clouds and Mt. Cramer are reflected in Imogene Lake.

August 17 was my sixth day on the trail, the first following a successful resupply. I was eager to return to the Sawtooth Wilderness and the high country. The previous day’s long slog along forest roads and badly designed trails would be redeemed by the trail ahead, I believed, and the miserable evening at the Hellroaring trailhead would be quickly forgotten, I kept telling myself. This day totally redeemed the decision and death march to get here.

When I woke up, the thermometer fob I’d attached to my hammock said it was 24 degrees, the coldest morning on the trail. As the sun was already up, I assume it was even colder in the dead of night. Fortunately, my hammock set-up and insulation kept me warm enough. Warm enough in fact that I got back into my hammock and slept another couple of hours. I knew it would be a relatively short day hiking-wise. Turns out the extra sleep was very restorative, and a great decision.
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Pettit Lake to Hellroaring Trailhead

Early morning reflection in Alice Lake.

Early morning reflection in Alice Lake.

My fifth day on the trail was the longest, beginning with a hike to a waiting resupply and ending with a long slog along a lonely forest road, 15.2 miles total. “Everything hurts,” I wrote that evening.

I awoke beside Alice Lake to a clear, crisp morning. It was 26 degrees, and a thin layer of frost covered the ground. The air was still, and so was the water. It reflected the surrounding mountains as the sunrise provided quite a show.

The campers nearby were just beginning to stir as I packed up my campsite and started down the trail. It was 8 o’clock in the morning.

The first order of business was to hike down from Alice Lake (8,596 feet) to Pettit Lake (6.996 feet), where a bear canister holding food, fuel, and other supplies (hopefully) waited. The trail is mostly open for the first two miles, providing excellent views of the jagged peaks, particularly the prominent El Capitan.
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The Two Passes

Approaching Snowyside Pass

Approaching Snowyside Pass

The fourth day of backpacking in the Sawtooths required me to traverse two high mountain passes, as I moved from the “main loop” as I called it to the Pettit-Toxaway Loop, where my resupply awaited near the shore of Pettit Lake (Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3). Previous blog entries cover much of the hiking to and over Sand Mountain Pass and Snowyside Pass, so this entry will cover the rest of the day and put the passes in context. It is August 15, my fourth day on the trail.

I awoke to a cold, clear morning. The rain and clouds of the previous day were gone. It was 32 degrees at sunrise. The plants on the ground were covered in frost, but the air was dry. It was a very cold start to the day, and I didn’t get off to a particularly quick start. My campsite was located on a high mound separating Vernon and Edna Lakes, a site chosen in a successful attempt to thwart the mosquito hordes. I packed up and hit the trail about 8:15 a.m. Well, I picked my way down the mound’s steep back side until reaching the trail, which I followed past the horse train’s camp and on to the glorious shore of Edna Lake.
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Snowyside Pass

Twin Lakes from Snowyside Pass

Twin Lakes from Snowyside Pass

The fourth day of my 10-day backpacking trek saw me hike over a pair of mountain passes, 9,303-foot Sand Mountain Pass and 9,435-foot Snowyside Pass, in order to cross the Sawtooths and reach the canyon where my resupply waited. The day began at Edna Lake, gained 900 feet to Sand Mountain Pass, lost 700 feet to Toxaway Lake, gained 1,100 feet to Snowyside Pass, and finally lost 900 feet to Alice Lake over about 9 miles.

This post picks up the trail from my lunch spot on the shore of Toxaway Lake, a breathtaking place where I wished I could have spent a night (or longer) during the trip. From the rocky ledge where I sat for a long lunch, I could see the three-headed crown of Snowyside Peak.
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I Love Me Post, Idaho Edition

Taking a Break at Toxaway Lake

Taking a Break at Toxaway Lake (Aug 15)

I sometimes get complaints, usually from the family, that I don’t take enough pictures of myself when I’m off on some grand adventure. There’s a simple reason for this, of course. I know what I look like, and it’s the places I go to that I’d rather feature.

It’s not that I don’t take photos of me. I do. They just don’t fit into the narrative very often. If I have a spot for one photo of a particular place or feature, then I’ll almost always choose one that doesn’t have me taking up some of the real estate. You know, the old better door than a window concept.

So, for the odyssey to the Sawtooths, I thought I would just gather up 14 photos of me taken during the trip and dump them all right here. It’s like a virtual “I Love Me” wall you see in lots of people’s offices — scads of photos of themselves. Other than the one above, these are in the order in which they were taken.
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Lakes of the Sawtooths, Part 4

Upper Baron Lake

Upper Baron Lake

This final post highlights the last few beautiful lakes I encountered in Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains back on August 20 and 22 (See prior installments).

The 20th, which turned out to be my last full day on the trail, began with a spectacular sunrise at Alpine Lake, which I shared with the local deer and trout populations. The lakeshore itself remained in shadow as the sun slowly lit the mountainous backdrop. The photo below was taken a few minutes after sunrise, when only the higher peaks were shining in the morning light.

Alpine Lake Alpenglow ©2009 Jeff Blaylock
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Lakes of the Sawtooths, Part 3

Upper Cramer Lake ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

Upper Cramer Lake

Previous posts showcased the beautiful lakes I encountered during the first six days of last month’s backpack through the Sawtooth Wilderness. Days seven and eight had their share of spectacular scenery, and nine of those lakes are featured here.

Day seven (August 18) began with the final leg of my resupply loop and ended back on the main backpacking loop by way of Sand Mountain Pass, the only mountain pass I encountered twice. There were two passes to cross before “Sandy,” and neither had a name. The first climb began immediately after I left my campsite alongside gorgeous Imogene Lake. I got off to a bit of a late start and didn’t hit the trail until nearly 9 a.m. It was quite a bit warmer than the previous morning but still quite chilly. It took me about an hour and 20 minutes to reach the first pass.

From it, the view back down to Imogene Lake, 850 feet below, was inspiring.
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Lakes of the Sawtooths, Part 2

Toxaway Lake ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

Snowyside Peak (left) reflects in the still waters of gorgeous Toxaway Lake, one of the Sawtooths' most breathtaking bodies of water.

This second post highlighting the lakes of the Sawtooth Mountains covers the middle three days of the backpack, roughly following the Pettit-Hellroaring route, but beginning and ending at Sand Mountain Pass. The trail down from the pass provides spectacular views of Toxaway Lake (Photos from the pass will be presented in a future post.). Unfortunately, I was not able to camp at this lake; I had to press on over a second pass, Snowyside, and on to the beautiful lakes beyond.
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How Does an Epic Tale Begin?

Portrait in the Sawtooths ©2009 Jeff Blaylock

A photo of me, taken by either Mike or Jesse, a couple of fellow hikers I met on the unnamed pass dividing the Hellroaring and Yellowbelly drainages. That's Imogene Lake behind me. We admired the views from here for about 30 minutes before going our separate ways. They were headed to Hellroaring Lake, where I'd been the day before, and I was bound for Hidden Lake via two more high passes.

How does one begin to tell the tale of nearly a month away, experiencing the wonders of this world on foot and by car, a sprawling epic covering nearly 150 miles of trail and 5,400 miles of road? Which of the more than 2,500 photographs should start the story? What moments, whether of sweeping grandeur or intimate discovery, are the proper ones to summarize the totality of the experience? I’ve no idea.

It has not gone without pondering. Many, many miles of pondering, in fact, beginning from the moment my car rolled out of its parking spot at Grandjean, stirring for the first time in 10 days. The enormity of the trek is overwhelming, incapable of easy or effortless translation, unmoved by the desire to provide an instant answer to “How was your trip?” There were so many moments, so many images stamped indelibly onto my memory, from joyous to humbling to scary to serene, so many places and people and things.

It does not begin with the departure from Austin, a long, tedious day’s drive to Tucumcari, New Mexico, a downpayment of 596 miles toward the more than 2,500 to the trailhead at the base of the Sawtooths.

No, this tale will surely shrug off structure and order, as surely as the carefully planned itinerary seldom came to pass. It shall unfold like an unruly map, spilling its contents here and there and denying efforts to fold it neatly to a precise place of interest. It shall be long in the telling, befitting the length of its coming and going, filling almost an entire month and pushing away all other parts of the world. Mercurial like the weather, stately like the mountains, rambling like the streams, bursting in dazzling colors like the wildflowers, coyly hiding like the wildlife, these it should be.

So it begins with a single photo, taken in a single moment, atop an unnamed pass, at 9,290 feet, wedged along the knife edge running between Pt. 9,955 and Pt. 9,934, high above Imogene Lake, on whose spectacular shore I had spent the night before. It begins with a chance meeting of two locals, whose love of these mountains was clear and true. It begins on the 7th day of the backpack, the 14th day of the trip, at 10:50 a.m. MDT, at 9,290 feet in elevation, with this single photo, a downpayment for the epic to come.

Portrait in the Sawtooths, SW09-0818-5820R, Sawtooth Wilderness, Sawtooth National Forest, Idaho | ©2009 Jeff Blaylock | Photo by Mike or Jesse of Hailey, Idaho